Introduction
If you lean in and really listen to the Baron, you’d swear he was getting drunk. I’ve seen the transformation before, when textbook Italian starts to ebb into marble-mouthed dialect, the linguistic synapse of a storyteller traveling back in time. First it was only a word of dialect here and there as we discussed the dishes of his childhood, but the last hour has had me squinting and hanging onto his every word, the way you might really grip the steering wheel while driving through a really thick fog.
‘Before there was so little, so very, very little’, he says, he eyes beginning to tear. ‘We always had just enough but those in the community struggled in ways that I think would be difficult to really imagine today. Unless you know real hunger, I mean real, real hunger- and for years at time- I don’t think the food down here is readily obvious. At least not from outside looking in anyway.’
I pour myself some more wine and disagree with him, at least in theory. I run a cooking school here in the Salento and those that come love the food of the region, for its pure flavours, never needing any of the back story to access the dishes on their own merit. The Baron falls silent for a moment and cocks his head to the side and eats a forkful of his Cecamariti, the way you might half-heartedly attempt to study a picture of your own mother, trying to forget who she is.
‘It’s good’, he says. ‘But I don’t think I can really taste it without also tasting the doorway back.’ He smacks his lips and takes another bite, holding his head low, as if he were in church.
I’ve decided to start my blog about the food of the Salento with the Baron because I believe that you, the reader, believe that the traditional food of the South of Italy is still being made by the poor, the uneducated, the rural and those that many of us would be tempted to call ‘peasants’. ‘Every morning in Italy, all the little old ladies wake up and begin to make everything fresh from scratch’.
The opposite is more often the truth.
Traditional food in Italy is the process of flip-flopping, where the real luxury today is finding the time to make things from scratch for those you love. Traditional food is being kept alive by those that know enough to love it, that understand that there is always something more to any dish, beyond a list of its ingredients. And that was what was really happening inside the Baron's mouth as he chewed.
lunedì 28 aprile 2008
'Mpepata (Spicy, Lightning-Quick Mussels)
‘Mpepata
This is one of those instinctual dishes that sprang up from using what’s on hand: it’s more a theme than a recipe, but the reference to ‘pepata’ reveals that it should have a kick. Regarding the cooking time, a mussel is cooked when it opens: every second after that is overcooking.
Fresh mussels.
Garlic
White wine
Parsley, or fresh herbs, such as mint and basle.
Red pepper
Oil
Bread
Clean the mussels thoroughly, scraping the shells with the BACK of a heavy knife. Mussels are cheap so discard any that you are questionable about, for any reason: cracked, open, funky, etc. Remove beards, which kills the mussel, and so time is now is now ticking.
In a pot big enough for all the mussels, add a glog of oil, the garlic, and sauté until it starts to make some noise, but before it takes on any colour. Dump in the drained mussels, and a generous amount of red pepper. Add a half a cup of white wine per portion of mussels, and stir constantly, careful to pull the open ones to the top of the pot, while pushing the unopened to the bottom. If you are using mussels from the Mediterranean, DO NOT add salt, as the sea is already so salty, and thus, so is the liquor from the mussels. Add the parsley, stir well and ladle into heated bowls. Remember to provide large bowls for the dead soldiers but also to implore guests that eating like a Viking is not only acceptable but preferred.
Variant.
Toast good-quality bread and place a slice in the bottle of the bowls before ladling on the mussels and broth. In either case, good quality bread is needed to mop, soak and dunk.
This is really a master recipe. You could vary the flavour-agents and take the dish in a thousand ways. Cream and curry. Hard cider and leek. Beer and caraway seeds. Vermouth and butter. Any place in the world that eats mussels has some variation of this dish. Do it once and you’ll never consult the recipe again.
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